Monthly Archives: May 2015

Archer the first – in Black and White

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This is probably my most worn self-made garment I have ever sewn. The black and white checkered pattern seems to go with everything in my closet: jeans, dressy skirts, office slacks…same with the colours. I particulary love it with a chartreuse wool skirt or with jeans.

The advantage of this one versus my usual store bought shirts is that is the fit…so much more relaxed than most of the ones i own. No gaping, no pulling!

The pattern is the Archer shirt from Grainline. Jen did an awesome sew-a-long and I had absolutely no issue following it. There’s even a video on the “burrito” method and the music on it is awesome!

I made a size 2 and most of the fit was spot on. However, I should have adjusted the length of the shirt and of the sleeves. I am 5’9″ with long arms and i could have used some extra length. As I mentioned though…I still wore it to shreds (quite literally). I added 1.5″ on the sleeves and about 2″ on the next one and that was perfect.

The fabric is a very soft cotton voile from Joann(!!). Lovely fabric but i think it keeps on shrinking with every wash…or I’m growing by the day… I also used iron-on interfacing from Joann and it has bubbled a long time ago (but of course!). Luckily it is not visible after ironing the cufs ….plus I am rolling the sleeves now as they are getting shorter and shorter…

There are a few construction/sewing hickups hiding in the busy checkered pattern: the front placket was not entirely caught on the inside, the hem has…issues, the tension went crazy somewhere along the way and some of the topstitching shows it…. Oh…the pattern matching…perfect on one side and perfectly shifted one row on the other… I tried, really tried to get it perfect…no idea how that happened.

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Anyway, nothing to stop me from wearing it with lots of pride. I still have enough fabric so i might try and do it again with a nicer sleeve placket.

Oh, i have used this tutorial for the collar stand. Very nice! Thank you Four Square Walls!

Next up… get ready for color!!! 😉

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My imperfect pride and joy…The plaid skirt

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There she is …my pride and joy! She’s not perfect by any means but the whole process really was (at the time I made it) a huge lip forward for me.

I started dreaming about it a few years ago after seeing Sunny’s. Loved her skirt to bits…However when I tried to get that same fabric she used (yes…I planned to shamelessly copy the whole thing) they were out of it. I think another year passed (or was it two?!) and I finally came across a fabric that I liked and bought it…online! Luckily it was a a very nice quality wool flannel. Soft and very easy to work with so I forgave it for having a very, very muted plaid pattern….my only regret. It might have been from Frabric Mart but it’s been a while so I am not 100% sure. The lining is rayon bemberg in the same gray color.

The pattern is the skirt piece of the Lonsdale dress pattern from Sewaholic. I cut a size 6 and i believe I might have lengthend it a little which in the end wasn’t quite necessary because the skirt is cut on the bias and because of the weight of the fabric it “grew” in length quite a bit.

Speaking of bias and plaid…I am so proud of my pattern matching!

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It really is pefect on both the back and front center seams.

I even inserted a handpicked metal zipper…

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And no, the zipper is not visible wheni wear it…my dress form has an weird rear-end…The idea was that the stitches are not visible at all.

The skirt has a horsehair hem which i am a little unusure about. It does give the skirt a nice, fuller silhouette but somehow it feels a little bit costumey when I wear it…And it’s also scratchy…Maybe I will try using Petersham ribbon for hem next time.

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The waistband is a straight long rectangle and it’s one of the things i’d change for next time…I don’t like it. I am a pear shape with a pretty accentuated waist so it gapes at the top. The inside was finished with petersham ribbon.

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Overall, this is probably the garment I worked on the most…Lots of hanstitching (the waist band, the hem, the zipper) but I like doing it and I think i even like the skirt a bit more because of it.

I will have two Archer shirts coming up!